Відео

Thank you @rickmcdowell9550 for the kind words. I still own and love my S7. I wish I had more time to create content, but family and work come first. I’ve taken on some bigger projects on other cars (i.e. manual transmission swap) that have proven time-consuming to complete, much less document and post. Hopefully I can get a few more videos posted.

@@ProjectBiehlmeister Glad to see you still have and love your S7 -

The ones I printed had a lip as well, but there wasn't enough engagement to prevent them from popping out the first time you hit a bump. The plugs aren't really flexible enough to fit perfectly and not pop out. RTV guarantees that you won't have to re-do the job later. Definitely use RTV on the plugs.

Glad to hear - thank you!

I just learned from the TDIclub.com forum that the person who was selling these plugs on Ebay passed away. The STL files are available on ThingVerse. You can pay a printing service to 3-D print the plugs using ABS plastic. www.stlfinder.com/model/mkiv-vw-blend-door-repair-plugs-41wCkIfS/4975799/

The old, easy-to-install versions of Toyota TechStream software only work with Windows XP.

This applies to a 2007 Cayman. It’s for all 986/996/987/997 cars (1997-2012). The holes are not supposed to be open. They are covered by foam from the factory. The foam needs to be fully removed before installing the plugs (or applying the aluminum tape instead of the plugs - both methods work.)

The code for the radio should be on a little card in the owner's manual pouch, or perhaps written in the owner's manual. If it's missing for some reason, you can get it from the Porsche dealer if you give them your VIN or Radio Full Details from sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/radiocodes The Radio Code is a 4-digit code provided by the Radio Manufacturer (Becker makes the radios for Porsche) without which the radio does not function. It was used to provide some assurance that a thief will have trouble using/selling the radio if he doesn't have the code. It was used on '97 thru '02 Boxsters. Later Boxsters don't require the code and use different radios. The code is required any time the battery is disconnected for a significant time such as for service, a discharged battery, or a battery replacement. The dealer is supposed to have delivered a credit-card sized plastic card with the Radio Code to the original owner. Look in the leather binder you got with the car. (Of course it shouldn't be stored there because the thief might look for it there.) What to do if you don't have the card: The code is often written inside the front trunk lid on the build sticker or on the build sticker that is inside the maintenance manual by a mechanic who is disconnecting the radio. And if it isn't there? The dealer can get the code for you if you provide the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) and the serial number of the radio. Post the serial number of the radio on renntech and there is a kind gent who can get you the code. There is a specific thread where you post the serial number and the gent gets back to you in a day or two with numbers to try based on an algorithm someone worked out. How to get the serial number: For a Becker CDR220 (the most common Boxster radio, the one with a CD player inside the detachable front plate) you can turn the radio on with the power button, then press the TP button until Becker 1 appears on the LCD. Then use the right-hand knob to turn to the selection for "Seri:" which is followed by the serial number of the Becker CD unit. The serial number is also on a sticker on the rear of the radio but you have to pull the radio to get at it. You need Radio pulling forks from Becker to do this. Any car radio shop or the dealer can do this for $$$. But why bother.

@@ProjectBiehlmeister Okay. Thank you for your advice. I bought the car used. It didn't come with a card or manual.

Yes, that foam is definitely from the blend door.

If the airbag trouble code will not reset, the most likely cause is the seat belt receptacle and harness under the seat. There was a recall to replace the electrical contact pins in the receptacles to eliminate resistance changes over time, but that was only somewhat successful. Cleaning the pins and grounds for the seat belt harness under the seat is probably your best option, as shown in this video: ua-cam.com/video/swm6DqkxErk/v-deo.html

You are welcome!

Update: a couple hours later. The problem was still the regulator, but it was just a little o ring. I guess mine was still not made in china because the metal was good. Just an old o ring. Thanks for the vid!

Can you provide a link to the magnetic stickers you used? Were they strong enough that you thought they would never come off of the flaps?

Thanks for the feedback - I’m glad the video was helpful!

Same situation! Thanks again!

Thanks for the feedback. I’ll update the video description to mention that Harbor Freight knobs are somewhat similar.

I purchased from a different eBay seller that does not currently have any active listings.

Thanks 👍

Indeed, the safety measures are key. These cars are so heavy, The added block of wood and jack stands; smart touch! Thank you!

I definitely would not use epoxy. Not because of durability concerns, but because of it making a mess and it being very difficult to remove if it falls in the wrong place. It could end up preventing the door from properly moving and would be difficult to remove. I recommend doing both doors and all holes at the same time. You’ll have little chunks of foam coming out of the vents for years otherwise. Just pull as much foam off the doors as possible and then install the plugs. It won’t take that much more time and then you never have to worry about it again.

@@ProjectBiehlmeister. I looked on EBay and found both the DSP ones for about $31 and then two other brands each for about $9. They all say they go to the Passat. Are these the ones? Is there any info on the alternative plugs? Thanks, Mike

I don’t have any experience with the other brands, but if they all fit the Passat, then they should work for the Porsches as well.

You are welcome!

I'm glad you found this helpful. Good luck with the last remaining steps!

You won't be able to find this song on any streaming service or movie sound track. The song "Won't You Ride in my Runaway Sleigh" was mentioned in 2002 "About A Boy" movie but was never actually played with lyrics. The main character (Will Freeman, played by Huge Grant) lives off the royalties from the song written by his deceased father but resents the song because it still eclipses his own achievements. The song was, however, performed during season 1 of the TV series when Will (played by David Walton) goes to the hospital emergency room and performs for his love interest (Dr. Samantha Lake, played by Adrianne Palick.) That single TV episode is the only available version of this song.

@@ProjectBiehlmeister ohh thank you for confirming! That’s too bad because it’s such a fun song, and so different.

Brake fluid needs to be changed every 2 years. This is in the maintenance schedule. This is because brake fluid absorbs moisture and becomes ineffective over time. The moisture corrodes brake components and boils during braking, causing the brakes not to stop. If you’ve changed brake fluid within the past few months and now you’re changing pads, I suppose you could change pads without bleeding the system. Otherwise…always change brake fluid when changing pads.

Plugs and tape would be a belt-and-suspenders approach. Either solution should be fine by itself. As far as it looking messy…I hope to never lay eyes on those blend doors again.

Unfortunately, full replacement of the assembly is the only solution Porsche lists in their system. The entire dash and center support assembly has to be removed, which is extremely labor-intensive. Hopefully the replacement unit has a different, foam-free design.

If you’re referring to the ignition switch problem, you can read about how that was resolved here: rennlist.com/forums/boxster-and-boxster-s-986-forum/1290213-ignition-switch-cylinder-problem-change-key-cylinder.html

I’m glad to hear that the Foxswell option worked well for you. It’s definitely easier to use than a laptop.

If you’re working on the vehicle with the key on, I recommend a charger with “service mode” that will power everything up if the engine isn’t running. Use this one: amzn.to/3UHcnRb

Thanks for not reading the video description, which explains that it’s 32mm…and even provides a link. :) Due to the low torque, a 34mm still works.

I think what you don’t realize is that only 1 of the 2 blend doors is accessible via the heater core removal method. You’ll still have foam blowing out the vents and improper mixing of the air if you don’t address both blend doors. Also, the blend door method requires taking a hacksaw to the bushing cover and then repairing it. Both methods require cutting and repairing something that wasn’t meant to be cut. But both repairs are completely hidden and preserve all original functionality. The only “correct” way to do this repair is to remove the dash and HVAC unit. That’s about a 20 hour job, and much more chance of not reassembling something. I don’t recommend it.

@@ProjectBiehlmeister definitely agree that removing the dash is not the way to go. Since you are familiar with the tape method of covering the vents and now that you have completed your repair using the plugs & RTV, would you still go the route of using the plugs if you had to do this procedure on another car? Or would you use the tape? Thanks for the video and your feedback!

To be honest, I think you are fine with either the tape method or the plugs. The only consideration is how durable the adhesive will be longterm. The aluminized tape seems to be very durable. But RTV is perhaps a better known and more trusted automotive adhesive, especially at higher temperatures. I would probably do the plugs if I did it again.

Does this work on 996.2 ?

Yes, this works on the 911 as well. 996.1, 996.2, 997.1, 997.2.

If you read the video description, there are now some other options available that don’t require XP or even a computer. But it’s still one more thing to get to do the job.

I’m glad the repair worked well for you!

2001 996. I had the same trepidation cutting into the duct. I did buy an oscillating saw just for this and I’m glad I did. Once the plastic was cut… my immediate thought was “wow, I sure did watch a video on UA-cam and took a saw to my car” … but I knew it was going to work. Demo on anything is that leap of commitment. 😊

I agree that ramps give much better accessibility. I always got nervous driving up on them with no spotter - seemed like I was going to launch off the end! I got QuickJacks a couple of years ago and really like them, but they do take longer to setup.

That is a weird coincidence! I don't know of anything related to wheels/tires/brakes that would cause an airbag light. The seat belt wiring connectors and the airbag wiring connections are the only sources for those faults as far as I know.

I’m glad it worked! For the radio code, try posting to this renntech thread: www.renntech.org/topic/54183-lost-radio-code-post-your-request-here/ Or pay $6 and purchase it from seller vitage4you on eBay: www.ebay.com/itm/293240556545?hash=item44467fcc01:g:Sk4AAOSwwOtdhSD&campid=5336391335&toolid=10001&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&ufes_redirect=true

I had the steering wheel off and the airbag disconnected when replacing the faulty ignition switch assembly for the newer/larger version from the 2004 Boxsters. I've since had the airbag light occasionally come back on when hitting a bump. It's a passenger side fault. I just put Stabilent amzn.to/34hvcWe on the wiring harness connectors and hopefully that will solve the problem. Otherwise, I might need to replace the buckle. I had the TSB performed and the upgraded gold connector pins and ground installed, so I'm not sure what's causing it.

@@ProjectBiehlmeister thanks for responding! I'm soon going to replace my ignition switch as well (key doesn't turn easily and occasionally when I turn the car off and remove the key, the radio stays on as if it thinks the key is still in the ignition). Calling around I couldn't find the OEM switch initially, only the whole assembly, so I ordered an aftermarket part for $12. Now I see Pelican Parts has the OEM switch for about $80. I suspect the $12 version might not last the 22 years the original one did, but seems like an easy enough install that if it fails I'll get the OEM next time. Lmk if you think that's a really dumb idea. =)

@@janetvaldivia In my personal experience, replacing just the ignition switch was the dumbest repair I've ever done on my Boxster! The original OEM switch would require some jiggling to get into the correct position, but it worked perfectly electrically. So I eventually replaced it with an "upgraded" design. About 2 years later, I started getting weird electrical system problems with every system EXCEPT the ignition system. Example: it eventually got so bad that the engine would die when I pushed on the brake pedal. I assumed it wasn't the ignition switch because it worked perfectly mechanically and was recently replaced. I removed the entire dash and spent hours with a multimeter and wiring diagram. I eventually figured out that everything misbehaving was eventually tied back to the ignition switch. Apparently, the switch stopped passing sufficient current at random times. For, 2004, the last year of production for the 986, Porsche released a completely new steering lock assembly with a new larger diameter ignition switch and that finally fixed all issues. (Porsche eliminated the assembly all together the next year on the 987.) This assembly is the permanent fix and the one I strongly recommend if you don't want to be stranded by electrical gremlins. Here's the Pelican Parts article that covers replacement. I strongly recommend upgrading to the 2004 design, though it does require more work to install (steering wheel and gauge cluster removal.) www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/86-ELEC-Ignition_Switch/86-ELEC-Ignition_Switch.htm

@@ProjectBiehlmeister I'll take a look at the Pelican Parts article, thank you for the reference! You've definitely given me something to think about. Hey since I seem to have caught you on a slow day, any thoughts on a horn that stopped working? I went through a period of time with an apparently common symptom of the horn sounding too easily, just a light tap of the steering wheel, but now it does not work at all. This is probably the highest priority fix for me since it's a safety thing.

I don’t have any personal experience with this, but my best guess is that there is a problem inside the steering wheel. The clock spring is the most likely culprit.